Roam, Italy

ASSISI

September 27, 2014

 

The Taking Of Assisi

     Today was a travel day. Florence to Assisi, with a stop in Cortona, of “Under The Tuscan Sun” fame. Cortona is a walled city, on top of a hill. Those early Italian settlers sure liked the high ground. More walking uphill. In fact, I'm pretty sure a lot of Italy is uphill - both ways!

     The drive through Tuscany brought more agricultural emphasis. We saw a patchwork of small fields growing olives, grapes, corn, hay, sunflowers, tobacco, and nursery stock. The climate is getting dryer as we head further south. 

     We have noticed that all residential structures are very similar throughout Italy. Tile roofs, masonry/stone/stucco walls and shutters on every window. The color palette is very limited. Always a pastel rose, yellow, ochre, or brownish tone. These hues may be intentional or just sun faded versions of their original colors. Either way, I’m convinced that the typical Italian paint store can be no larger than a small Starbucks. Their color swatch sample rack can’t be more than 6" wide!

     We stopped at the base of Assisi, another walled city, to tour the original tiny chapel that St. Francis built. It stands directly under the dome of a huge church constructed around it. The chapel is about the size of our woodshed back home on the farm. Any more than a dozen folks in there would be SRO. 

     Also on display was his rope tunic belt. Crazy to think that it is from circa 1181-1226! I have a broken lawn mower starter cord that looks similar, but I'm sure there is a difference. 

     Tomorrow we explore Assisi. 

     Tonight’s gelato: Cocco and Fragola (hazel nuts) (somebody’s got to do it...)

 

 

September 28, 2014

 

All Things St. Francis

     Assisi. The entire city is built of rose (light pink) and white colored stone. The fact that nearly all the structures are constructed of the same material gives this place the look of one huge complex.

     What the Celtics are to Boston, so is St. Francis to Assisi. Times 100. The Basilica of St. Francis is composed of two churches built one above the other. (And we’re not talking 8 foot ceilings here...) The lower one dates from 1228-1230 and the upper one from 1230-1253. St. Francis’ crypt is below the lower church. 

     It boggles the mind (at least this pea brain) how these types of structures were engineered and built over nearly 800 years ago. They had no sky cranes or scissor lifts. No dump trucks or jack hammers. Just strong backs and an unwavering passion to complete the task. Obviously, there were no unions back then to complicate the process. I can just imagine: the donkey drivers union goes on strike. They set up picket lines. The water bucket union refuses to cross those lines - resulting in the potential of half the populace dying of dehydration. The wine makers union steps in to arbitrate. Nothing like sitting down with a nice chianti and ironing things out. So civilized. 

     Thanks to daughter Ashley’s good friends - the Sarti’s - we were connected with Daniela, who along with her husband Pepe, operate a local hostel. She was kind enough to drive us to the Hermitage of St. Francis and give us a personal tour. It is a very quiet forest retreat high above the city. Of all the reverent landmarks that we have encountered on this trip, this one epitomizes having a religious experience. Thank you Daniela - a four-hour walk up the mountain would have resulted in a gasping, quick death, followed by a totally different religious experience.

     Tomorrow we head to Roma (that’s Italian for Rome) for our last stop in Italy. We keep trying to call Pope Frank’s cell but his line is always busy. Must be talking to God.

     Gelatos of the day: Bacio & Orange (19 and counting...)